If you’ve heard about Assateague Island then most likely it’s because of the wild horses that live there but let me tell you there is way more wildlife on the island to enjoy than just the horses.
Assateague Island is along the Atlantic coast and is located in Maryland and Virginia as part of the Delmarva Peninsula. The island is a 37-mile barrier island with a fence that divides the Maryland and Virginia areas in order to keep the horse herd separated. The only roads on the island are on each end in the park areas however on the Maryland side there are about 12 miles of Over-Sand Vehicle driving area that you can enjoy with the proper vehicle and a permit.
The entrances to the two island ends are about an hour apart on the inland roads. You get to drive through some interesting areas especially on the southern end including the large marsh areas leading into the town of Chincoteague. You also travel through the NASA Wallops Flight facility area which also features a small visitor center and if you are interested in space travel it’s worth a stop to see the displays.
The wild horses bring a lot of people to Assateague Island. Originally released on the island in the 1600s by colonists, today the herds are managed in totally different ways in each state. In Maryland, the herd population is controlled through birth control injections, where they carefully calculate the numbers for each family group on the northern half of the island. The Virginia herd is managed by a yearly roundup and sale of the ponies by the local fire department in which the funds raised are used by the community. This brings a yearly festival featuring a cowboy-style roundup into corrals and then the herd is taken into town by swimming them across the bay waters into Chincoteague for the auction.
The Virginia end of the island contains Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge which has a variety of things to enjoy besides searching for the horses.
Along the roads in the refuge, you’ll see all types of environments for wildlife from wooded forests to salt marshes to sandy dunes and beaches. The Wildlife Loop is open to cars but if you have bicycles that is the best way to see this area. The quietness of your bike can lead to some great encounters with wildlife, especially for bird watchers. There are numerous easy hiking trails within the refuge so be sure to check them out.
The various water features within Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge including pools, streams, and salt marshes, as well as the large bay and ocean, just magnifies the opportunities to see all kinds of birds. From egrets to oystercatchers, plovers to skimmers, eagles to chickadees, you can see about the widest variety of birds that you can see anywhere in a small location.
Assateague Lighthouse is a 142-foot lighthouse that is open to the public for incredible views of the surrounding area. An interesting fact, when the lighthouse was built in 1867, it was on the southernmost end of Assateague Island. Since then, the constant tides and fierce Atlantic storms continuously change the island by moving the sands and beach and now the lighthouse is about two miles from the southernmost point of the island.
This southern area includes Tom’s Cove hook which is a shell collectors mecca. If you like large whelk shells then you must make the long walk to this area. Promise you will not be disappointed but be sure to check the regulations as there are limits and other rules.
Let’s now take a look at my favorite part of the island which is the northern or Maryland end. To get on this end of the island you will travel over the Verrazano Bridge which if you have the chance whether by walking or bicycling you should go to the top for the view.
The northern end features Assateague State Park and Assateague Island National Seashore. Each park has separate entrance fees so be prepared if going into either park. You can drive on the island to the national park entrance without paying any fees and you’ll most likely see at least horses on that drive but for the best experience, you have to go into Assateague Island National Seashore.
Both the state and national parks have a campground. The state park facility has hookups while the national park does not. Both parks have campsites in the sand dunes by the beach but the national park area also has sites along the marsh side of the island. Backcountry camping is also available through the national park.
There is just something magical about camping on the island and it really brings you closer to the wildlife whether it’s hearing the horses in your site in the middle of the nights or watching eagles flying over midday, being on the island all day and night really connects you to this place.
The beach is an obvious destination on the island and there is access from both the state and national park. While on the beach be sure to look for the groups of sanderlings that run in and out with the tidewater searching for food. These guys are so much fun to watch and occasionally there are other shorebirds hanging out with them including the piping plover. Also, don’t forget to look out in the water for dolphins as at times they are close to shore and you can watch pods go by.
There are numerous walkways to the beach within Assateague Island National Seashore and keep in mind the further from the main entrance you get the better chance of fewer crowds. However, in my opinion, the best way to experience the beach is to arrive before sunrise and watch the sun’s first appearance for the day. I can’t think of a better way to start any day than walking the beach and watching the sunrise. I would say collecting shells in the early morning but honestly, there are not many shells in the northern area but again go to Tom’s Cove on the Virginia side and it will totally make up for any lack of shells here.
My favorite place on the entire island is the simple marsh walkway by the Bayside Campground in Assateague Island National Seashore. It doesn’t matter how many times you walk this simple little loop I guarantee that what you see will be different.
Whether it’s dozens of Little Blue Herons and Snowy Egrets fishing in the tidal pools or watching blue crabs in the marshes, or seagull dropping clams on the boardwalk to break them open or sika deer making their way through the grasses, there is constant change happening in this little area.
Let’s talk about the sika deer for a minute, these little guys get no respect yet they are pretty neat. They are a small Asian elk that was released on the island around a hundred years ago by Boy Scouts that had them in Ocean City as a tourist attraction. The first time I saw them I was shocked as I didn’t know they even existed. They are a beautiful dark brown color with faint white spots on the back half and that white elk rump. When I asked about them at the visitor center they seemed annoyed that I was interested in the sika and said: “they aren’t supposed to be here” to which I said, “neither are the horses” which didn’t go over that well but it was true so I laughed.
But since that first encounter, I have loved the little sika deer especially when I hear the males bugle just like the elk of the west but it seems that over the years the numbers have dropped tremendously as I simply don’t see them like I used to. I wish they would promote this unique wildlife experience like they do the horses as neither chose to be dropped off on this island by humans.
But back to talking about the marsh walk area. I’ve seen things like six bald eagles flying through at once, a clapper rail swimming and running through the marsh grasses, terns diving for fish in the deeper bay waters, great egrets fighting over the best fishing spots, and much much more. I think this marsh is the reason I love this island so much. And camping in the bayside campground just makes it perfect to walk over and go through the marsh numerous times throughout the day and watch as things change.
Early morning usually is the most active for the marsh area for the numerous herons and egrets that fish in the pools especially at low tide. Another great place for the same type of marsh action is the Ferry Landing point which also has a short walkway over water so you can get closer to that environment. You can also do some crabbing from here if you bring your own equipment.
A little farther down the road is another short hike on the forest trail which goes out to a nice overlook of more marsh areas. This is a really good spot for sunset especially if the horses are out in the marsh between the overlook and the bay. There are lots of little pool areas for the birds to fish in so be sure to check this area out.
The bayside of the island is a great place to kayak or canoe. You can put in at the end of Bayside Drive or the Ferry Landing. The waters around the marshes can get really shallow during low tide so keep that in mind. Rentals are available seasonally so be sure to check into that if interested.
I highly recommend biking on the island if you get the chance, as it’s a great way to get around. Just look out for the horse droppings along the bike paths. You can cycle over the bridge to the visitor center and enjoy the view along the way.
I really can’t say enough great things about Assateague Island, it’s an all-year place to visit. The winter months offer great viewing of the large flocks of snow geese that winter there, spring and fall bring in great migration sighting opportunities with smaller crowds. And of course, there is summer and since this is a barrier island the beach areas are endless but summer on the island is more for humans than the bird populations.
But doesn’t matter when you can go just that you go. However, if you can visit in the fall and camp on the island then that is what I highly recommend as that is by far my favorite time to visit.
For more about the egrets and herons in the area check out my blog post about the Dancing Egrets and Herons.
